What Is the Markup on Motorhomes?

Published June 1, 2023 | Last updated August 3, 2026

New motorhomes often have a large gap between MSRP and the dealer’s normal selling price, but there is no single markup percentage that applies to every Class A, Class B, or Class C motorhome.

You will often hear that dealers mark up motorhomes by 20%, 30%, or even 40%. Those numbers can be useful as a rough reference, but they are not a formula you can rely on.

When I bought our new Thor Challenger Class A, I knew there was substantial room between the advertised MSRP and a realistic selling price. I worked toward negotiating roughly 35% to 40% off MSRP.

But that does not mean every buyer should demand exactly 40% off every motorhome.

The better question is:

What are other dealers actually willing to sell the same motorhome for, and what is the complete out-the-door price?

What Does Motorhome Markup Mean?

Markup is the amount a dealer adds to its cost when establishing a selling price.

That sounds simple, but buyers usually do not know the dealer’s true cost.

The dealer may have paid an invoice amount, received a manufacturer incentive, earned a volume bonus, paid freight, financed the inventory, or received additional discounts that never appear on the MSRP sticker.

That is why you cannot look at a $200,000 MSRP and confidently calculate what the dealer paid.

How Much Do Dealers Mark Up Motorhomes?

A commonly repeated estimate is that motorhomes may have 20% to 40% or more between dealer cost and MSRP, depending on the manufacturer, model, inventory level, and market conditions.

I would treat that as a broad rule of thumb—not a guaranteed markup.

The gap can vary because of:

• Motorhome class
• Manufacturer and dealer agreement
• Chassis and engine cost
• Factory options
• Freight charges
• Manufacturer incentives
• Dealer volume incentives
• How long the motorhome has been sitting
• Current demand for the floor plan
• Whether a newer model year has arrived

This is especially important with motorhomes because you are not just buying an RV body. You are also buying a chassis, engine, drivetrain, generator, and a long list of expensive systems.

MSRP Is Not the Same as Market Value

MSRP means manufacturer’s suggested retail price.

The key word is suggested.

In the motorhome market, MSRP can be a poor measure of actual value because different manufacturers price their products differently.

One manufacturer may use an aggressive MSRP that is close to the expected selling price. Another may set a much higher MSRP and rely on dealers advertising a dramatic discount.

That makes percentage-off comparisons tricky.

A motorhome advertised at 35% off MSRP is not automatically a better deal than one advertised at 25% off MSRP.

The lower-discount motorhome may still have the lower real selling price compared with identical units elsewhere.

Markup, Gross Margin, and Dealer Profit Are Different

This is where a lot of RV pricing articles get confused.

Markup is the amount added to dealer cost.

Gross margin is the difference between the dealer’s direct cost and selling price, measured against the selling price.

Net profit is what the dealership keeps after paying employees, advertising, rent, utilities, insurance, inventory financing, service costs, and other overhead.

A motorhome may have a large apparent markup without the dealer keeping that entire amount as profit.

But you do not need to calculate the dealer’s net profit to make a smart purchase.

Your job is to determine the motorhome’s fair market price and control the fees, financing, trade-in, and add-ons.

Do Class A, Class B, and Class C Motorhomes Have the Same Markup?

No. Discount patterns can differ significantly by motorhome class and manufacturer.

Class A motorhomes often show some of the largest dollar discounts because the MSRPs are high and there may be substantial room to negotiate.

Class B motorhomes may have less discounting when inventory is limited or demand is strong. Their smaller size does not mean they are cheap to build, especially when they use expensive van chassis.

Class C motorhomes fall somewhere in between, but pricing still varies widely depending on whether the unit is built on a Ford, Chevrolet, Mercedes-Benz, or other chassis.

Super C motorhomes and diesel pushers can involve large dollar discounts, but they also have more expensive chassis, drivetrains, and options.

I would never apply one expected discount to every class.

How Much Below MSRP Should You Pay?

There is no universal target, but this rough framework can help:

• Less than 15% off MSRP: Often not an aggressive deal unless the motorhome is scarce, newly released, or priced with an unusually realistic MSRP.
• 20% to 30% off MSRP: A common advertised or negotiated range on many new motorhomes.
• 30% to 35% off MSRP: Potentially strong, assuming the fees are reasonable and comparable motorhomes support the price.
• 35% to 40% off MSRP: Possible on some Class A motorhomes, outgoing model years, aged inventory, or brands with inflated MSRPs.

These percentages are checkpoints, not guarantees.

A motorhome advertised at 40% off MSRP can still be a bad deal if it has excessive fees, poor financing, old tires, chassis issues, damage, or a floor plan you will regret.

My Experience Buying a Used Class C

When we bought our used Gulf Stream Conquest Class C, I did not know exactly what a fair price should be.

Used pricing was easier to evaluate because I could compare it with other Class C motorhomes that had similar years, mileage, floor plans, features, and condition.

Those comparable listings helped me establish a realistic range.

That is still the best approach for used motorhomes.

• Compare the exact model when possible.
• Compare similar mileage.
• Account for chassis and engine differences.
• Evaluate maintenance records.
• Check tire age.
• Inspect the roof, slides, appliances, generator, and leveling system.
• Separate cosmetic wear from expensive mechanical problems.

A used motorhome with a higher asking price may be the better deal if it has excellent maintenance records, newer tires, and fewer deferred repairs.

My Experience Buying a New Class A

Buying our new Thor Challenger Class A was more difficult.

The only obvious comparisons were other new Class A motorhomes, and the MSRPs were all over the place.

Luckily, I work in the RV industry and knew there was room to negotiate. I worked toward getting the price down by roughly 35% to 40% from MSRP.

The key was not the percentage by itself.

I needed to know what other dealers were actually asking for comparable units and whether the final price made sense.

That is the lesson I would give any new motorhome buyer: use the discount percentage as one clue, not the entire answer.

How to Find a Fair Price on a New Motorhome

Here is the process I would use today:

1. Choose the exact model and floor plan. Similar-looking motorhomes can have different chassis, engines, generators, and packages.
2. Confirm the chassis year and coach year. A motorhome may be titled by one year while using a chassis manufactured earlier.
3. Compare the factory options. Full-body paint, upgraded batteries, solar, theater seating, residential refrigerators, and driver-assistance packages can change the price substantially.
4. Search a wide geographic area. Motorhome buyers may save thousands by traveling to another dealer.
5. Request written out-the-door quotes. Do not compare advertised prices alone.
6. Compare at least three serious offers. Give your preferred dealer a chance to compete.

The Out-the-Door Price Matters More Than MSRP

The out-the-door price is the total cost required to complete the purchase.

Ask the dealer to provide a written breakdown showing:

• Motorhome selling price
• Freight or destination charge
• Dealer preparation fee
• Documentation fee
• Required accessories or packages
• Trade-in value and payoff
• Sales tax
• Title and registration fees
• Total amount due

A dealer may advertise a massive discount and then add thousands of dollars in freight, preparation, documentation, and protection packages.

Compare the total—not the headline.

Negotiate These Parts Separately

Keep the transaction divided into separate pieces:

1. The motorhome’s selling price
2. Dealer fees and add-ons
3. Your trade-in value
4. Your financing terms
5. The final out-the-door price

If everything is rolled into one monthly payment, it becomes much harder to see where you are overpaying.

Do Not Negotiate From the Monthly Payment

A dealership can make an expensive motorhome appear affordable by extending the loan over more years.

That lowers the monthly payment but can dramatically increase the total interest paid.

Negotiate the motorhome price first.

Then compare financing from the dealer, your bank, and a credit union.

Does Paying Cash Get You a Better Price?

Not necessarily.

Dealers may earn money when buyers finance through their lenders. A cash buyer may be less profitable to the dealership.

I would negotiate the motorhome price before making cash the focus of the conversation.

If dealer financing creates a better overall deal, read the contract carefully and verify whether there is a prepayment penalty before planning to pay the loan off early.

Watch for Expensive Finance-Office Add-Ons

A strong selling price can be undone in the finance office.

Common add-ons include:

• Extended service contracts
• Paint and fabric protection
• Tire and wheel coverage
• Roadside assistance
• Prepaid maintenance
• Gap coverage
• Security and tracking systems
• Appearance packages

Some of these products may be useful, but they should be evaluated individually.

Do not buy them merely because they only add a small amount to a long monthly payment.

Never Skip an Inspection on a New Motorhome

A large discount does not make a defective motorhome a good deal.

New motorhomes can have:

• Roof or window leaks
• Slide problems
• Plumbing leaks
• Generator faults
• Electrical problems
• Appliance failures
• Leveling-system issues
• Chassis recalls or service needs
• Loose trim, sealant, or hardware

I strongly recommend an independent RV inspection before final acceptance.

If you cannot afford a professional inspection, use a detailed checklist and test every system. Do not let the dealership rush the pre-delivery inspection.

When Is the Best Time to Buy a Motorhome?

Aged inventory, outgoing model years, and slow-selling floor plans can create good opportunities.

But there is no magic month that guarantees the lowest price.

The better opportunity is usually a motorhome that:

• Has been sitting at the dealership
• Is from the outgoing model year
• Has several comparable units available
• Is being sold in a competitive market
• Has a dealer motivated to reduce inventory costs

Are RV Show Prices Really Better?

Sometimes, but the words “show special” do not prove you are getting the lowest price.

RV shows are excellent for comparing floor plans, chassis, storage, bathrooms, beds, and driving positions in one place.

They may also create competitive pricing.

Still, research the exact motorhome before the show and ask for the complete written out-the-door price before leaving a deposit.

When You Should Walk Away

Walk away when:

• The dealer will not provide a written breakdown
• Unexpected fees appear late in the deal
• You are pressured to sign immediately
• The dealer refuses an independent inspection
• The financing terms change
• The motorhome has unresolved defects
• The out-the-door price is higher than comparable quotes
• You are no longer comfortable with the purchase

There will always be another motorhome.

My Bottom Line

Motorhome dealers may have 20% to 40% or more between dealer cost and MSRP on some units, but that is not a universal rule.

Class A, Class B, Class C, Super C, and diesel motorhomes can have very different pricing patterns.

The strongest deal is not necessarily the motorhome with the biggest advertised discount.

Compare identical units, confirm the chassis and options, request written out-the-door quotes, separate the price from financing and trade-in discussions, inspect the RV, and be willing to walk away.

Do not buy the discount. Buy the motorhome only when the final price, condition, floor plan, and ownership costs all make sense.

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Related Reading:

• How Much Does a Motorhome Cost to Own?
• Are Motorhome Prices Dropping?
• Motorhome Trade-In Value: What Is Your RV Worth?

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